Wednesday, 29 November 2017

The Flower Power Blazer

I was visiting my mum a couple months ago when I first spotted this amazing floral fabric in Spotlight. As soon as I saw it I had the idea of making a jacket out of it, but I decided not to impulse buy, and left without it! However, as you may have guessed, I couldn't stop thinking about it, so when I got back home I went to my local Spotlight to pick up a few meters. 


Despite seeing some less than favourable reviews, I decided to try out the Delavan blazer from Seamwork, since I had plenty of Seamwork credits to spend, and it looked fairly straightforward for a blazer!
The details:
Fabric: Floral cotton sateen from Spotlight
Pattern: Delavan by Seamwork
Size: 6, graded to an 8 at the hips
Special touches and alterations: Added 3cm to sleeve length, 2cm to length at hem, and 2cm to width of collar
I bound all the seams in a self bias binding, which might not have been the best idea as the fabric is a bit bulky, so the bias binding is quite stiff! It does make a lovely neat finish though. When cutting out the fabric, I tried to avoid any repeats in the fabric being too close to one another. Of course I failed at first and had to re-cut a sleeve and collar piece, but I'm so glad I did, as I'm really happy with the print placement now!
Meg at Cookin' & Craftin' had written a post about her experience in making the Delavan blazer, which was helpful to refer to. However, I think I figured out the trick for how to deal with the seam allowance on the back vent when hemming. As noted on the Cookin' & Craftin' blog post, once you sew the back bodice pieces together, the seam allowance sticks out, making it difficult to bind the hem. The instructions simply tell you to press the seam allowance to the left. But I think what they mean is to press it to the left along the fabric, so that it gets tucked under the vent! I probably haven't explained it very well, but see my picture below, which should help. This leaves the hem free to turn up or bind in any usual manner, as the seam allowance sits against the fabric, rather than sticking out like a little fin :)
My measurements put me in a size 4/6 at the bust, and a 8/10 at the hips. I ended up going with a size 6, and grading to a 10 at the hips, but I wonder if it might be too large. I also had the same issue at the shoulders as Meg did, with some weird "collapsing" of the blazer happening and resulting in some wrinkles around the shoulders and upper chest. I tried adding some makeshift shoulder pads but it didn't seem to help. Maybe making the size smaller would have helped with this?
Given that this is my first blazer or structured jacket, I'm pretty happy overall. It is certainly wearable and I love the style - it is "neutral" enough to go with almost anything, but gives a pop of colour and interest to any outfit. Hooray!

2 comments:

  1. This looks great. Such an unusual print!

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    Replies
    1. Thanks! It is, isn't it? Reminds me of drawings in old botany textbooks :)

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