Wednesday, 1 November 2017

The Violets Are Blue Set

If you are at all interested in bra-making, I expect you would have heard of the Maya bra by AFI Atelier. This is a FREE pattern (you heard me!) that is available to download, and includes pattern pieces for a foam or foam-less bra. I decided to give it a go, and made it up sans-foam in this kit from Booby Traps.

As the pattern does not include full instructions (yet), I used the instructions on the website in conjunction with the instructions for the Harriet bra, and Cloth Habit's bra making sew along instructions. This worked just fine, but is something to keep in mind if you don't have bra-making experience - you will need to supplement the instructions with information from somewhere else!

The details
Fabric: Lace, power net, and tricot from this kit from Booby Traps
Notions: Elastics, channeling and hooks and eyes from this kit from Booby Traps, rings and sliders from sewingcraftnotions on Etsy, underwires from Lincraft
Pattern: Maya bra by AFI Atelier and Rosy Ladyshorts by Cloth Habit
Size: 32D in the Maya, M in the Rosy Ladyshorts  
Special touches and alterations: I wanted to use a picot elastic for the Ladyshorts instead of a stretch lace trim, so I added 2.5cm to the edges to account for this. The crotch part still came out looking rather narrow, but it is actually comfortable to wear.
I made the Maya in a straight size 32D and I'm... not convinced the fit is right. I have a feeling it might be on the small side in the cups? I used size 38 underwires, as with my previous Harriet's, but in the Maya I don't feel like they are wide enough. I may try a 32DD, and then just take some volume out of the cup, like I did for my second Harriet.
Another problem that has now come to light (after wearing it a few times) is that the underwires have decided they want to poke a hole in the channeling and poke me under the arm!! Boo! I'm not 100% sure what caused this, but it might be that there was not enough "wire play" in the channeling, given the size I made should have taken a size 36 wire, not a size 38? Not sure. In any case, this bra is currently in my mending pile - I need to figure out how to stop the wires from poking me!
For a matching set, I decided to make a pair of the (also FREE) Rosy Ladyshorts by Cloth Habit. These are designed to be used with a stretch lace trim to finish the legs and waistband, but I wanted to use the elastic provided in my kit so I altered the pattern slightly to use a picot elastic instead. I used the tricot provided in the kit as the main fabirc, which didn't have much stretch, but surprisingly it worked quite well and they are very comfortable!
Reading about people who make lingerie, I find it interesting to see who makes matching sets, and who makes one-off items. I am a matching set kinda girl - I wear a matching lingerie set almost every day - unless I'm just bumming around the house on weekends, in which case I join the no bra club ;) I also wear a new bra every day, so my bras get washed as often as my briefs do - which I know some people suggest could shorten the life of the bras. But I figure they are against my skin getting sweaty and grimy, and washing them at the same time means they wear out at the same rate as my briefs!
And the sooner they wear out, the sooner I have an excuse to make a new set?? :P


  1. I think this is my favourite set you made so far, I love these patterns.
    I might get enough courage to start the undergarments one day.
    Love your blog
    Happy sewing

    1. Thanks Chantal! You really should - they are quick to make and become quite addictive :)