Wednesday, 11 October 2017

The Fresh as a Daisy Set

I've already mentioned that the Cloth Habit Watson set was the pattern that inspired me to give lingerie making a go. I guess it would make sense then that the release of the Harriet bra was also what pushed my butt into gear to try my first underwire bra!

The yellow elastic with white lace look was one I'd seen around a few times, including in the Watson samples as well as another Harriet bra made by Closet Case files. I debated a few other color combinations but when I showed some quick illustrations to my boyfriend he was adamant white and yellow was the way to go!
The details:
Fabric: White lace from MintFrog (sold out) and cotton jersey from Lincraft, cup lining and powernet from Booby Traps
Notions: Strapping elastic, band elastic, underwire casing and hook and eye from Booby Traps, piping elastic from kimthayer, underwires from Lincraft, rings and sliders from sewingcraftnotions
Pattern: Harriet bra from Cloth Habit, Claudia briefs from Ohhh Lulu
Size: 30DD in the Harriet and M in the Claudia 
Special touches and alterations: Made view B in the bra and view A in the briefs. Moved side seams in the Claudia briefs backwards to account for not enough lace.

I had a few white laces in my stash, and ended up going with this one from MintFrog on Etsy (my favorite shop for lace!). I dyed the elastics, underwire casing and hook and eye with the Brilliant Yellow acid reactive dye from Dharma.
I usually wear an Australian 10D in bras, which translates to a 32D in European sizing. However, based on my measurements, I went with the 30DD in the Harriet pattern (which is consistent with the size note saying this pattern is designed to have a tighter band, so you may be a band size down and cup size up from usual). For reference, I measured 28.7" underbust, and 33.4" at my full bust, giving me a 4.7" difference between full bust and underbust. I rounded up the 28.7" to a 30 band size, and the 4.7" to a DD cup size.
I had purchased a few different sizes of underwire from Lincraft, which are labeled by Australian bra size rather than wire size. The didn't have a full range so I went by sister sizing to get a few more options, and ended up feeling most comfortable in a 14C, which would translate to a 30E in sister sizing, or a 38 size wire. I had speculated that I have a broad but less projected shape than bras usually design for, so it made sense that I would feel comfortable in a larger wire size than usual for my measurements.

Given the 30DD is designed to take a 36 wire, which is just one size down from what I had, I decided to risk it without doing any further adjustments to the pattern. This seemed to work fine - the wire still fit into the wireline nicely, but just splayed a teeny bit more than a 36 wire would I think.
I cut the cups and bridge from lace with a beige cup lining, and used powermesh for the band. After sewing it all together, I was surprised to find the fit was great! The only problem was some excess fabric in the upper cups, which you can just see in some of these photos (although I also have pads in for modesty in the photos, which might help fill out the bra a tiny bit more than usual!). As you may have seen, I fixed this problem with my second Harriet bra by taking a wedge out of the cup to decrease the volume.

I decided to make a matching set of briefs using the Claudia pattern from Ohhh Lulu. I didn't have a lot of the lace left, so I shifted the side seams backwards so that there was a greater proportion of the solid fabric than the lace. Other than that I sewed them up as usual and have to say they are surprisingly comfortable! The cotton jersey I used on the front doesn't have great recovery, but I haven't found this to be too much of a problem as the stretch lace seems to make up for this and keep things tight and in place.

So that's my second Cloth Habit/Ohhh Lulu success story! And I can't wait to fill my lingerie drawer with many more :)

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