Wednesday, 21 February 2018

The Snow White Set

If you follow me on Instagram, you'll have seen that I unofficially declared January my "lingerie sewing month", after completing 3 sets in 3 weeks. This was the first of those sets - an Orange Lingerie Marlborough bra with the Merckwaerdigh Hipster briefs.

The details:
Pattern: The Orange Lingerie Marlborough bra and the Merckwaerdigh Hipster briefs.
Fabric: Tricot, powernet, non-stretch cup lining and lycra from Booby Traps, lace from MintFrog on Etsy
Notions: Elastics and strapping from Booby Traps; rings, sliders and G-hook from sewingcraftnotions on Etsy
Size: 34C in the Marlborough, medium in the Hipster briefs
Special touches and alterations: Took off around 0.9cm from upper cup volume in the Marlborough

I have mentioned before that I love dying my bra making supplies, and I have a good stash of nylon based lycra, mesh, powernet and elastics to use with my Dharma acid dyes. However, I've had a bit of difficulty finding a nylon based stable non-strech fabric to use for underwired bra cups and cradles, as fabrics like duoplex seem to be exclusively made of polyester (correct me if I'm wrong!). After a bit of searching I found this nylon based tricot from Booby Traps, and decided to order a bit to see if it would suit my needs. I always thought that tricot was quite sheer, but the pictures on the Booby Traps website seemed to be opaque enough, and I was happy enough with the opacity when it arrived.

Despite buying it specifically to dye it, I decided to use the tricot in this set leaving it in it's natural white colour. This was mainly because it was my first time making each of these patterns, so I was treating them as a test run only. Luckily for me they both fit me quite well! I used a burgundy lace from MintFrog on Etsy as a contrast (which unfortunately seems to be sold out as I can't find it in the store anymore).

I made the Marlborough in a size 34C after much indecisiveness. The measurement method listed put me in a different size, but it uses a high bust rather than an under bust measurement, which never seems to work for me (there is only a tiny difference between my full bust and my high bust, maybe because of my broad back and shoulders?). Instead I started with my RTW size (32D) and sized up the band as I had heard it ran small. I also preemptively took a bit of volume out of the cup, since I know I have a wide breast root but shallow projection. I think the fit is pretty much spot on for me, with only a small weird flat spot at the bottom along the wireline, which I'll try to correct next time. The Hipster panties were a lot less complicated. I cut a size M based on the size chart from lycra and my stretch lace and that was it! :) They fit well and are super comfortable.

And the tricot was a success! It probably isn't as supportive as I imagine a duoplex would be, but it's supportive enough for me. And now I have another bra making fabric in my arsenal! I will report back on how well it dyes when I eventually have the chance to have a play!


  1. Both you and your lingerie are stunning, as always. I love the deep color of the red lace. Just lovely.